All Pedaled Out

At the Laoshan cycling cluster, my knowledge of track cycling, BMX, and mountain biking changed from theoretical to first-hand. I went from reading about each discipline to seeing the world’s top athletes compete in them. The Brits dominated on the track, the United States didn’t quite pull off a BMX sweep, and a French guy ran away (or pedaled, I suppose) with the Mens Mountain Bike gold. I sacrificed my bucket hat to an athlete from the Netherlands who looked like she was about to die of heat exhaustion after coming off the mountain bike course. I used the (not so) stylish lid as a pillow filled with ice water to help cool her until the medics arrived.

I collected dozens of pins, a few business cards, and a cadre of new friends—friends I may never see again, but who were a major part of my experience and understanding of China. Especially the realization that I never will fully understand China.

They walk slowly and follow the rules; they are afraid of the rules; they don’t question the rules. They giggle like children over silly things; they’ve seen families in poverty who can’t eat everyday or attend school—one was only one generation away from this. They taught me how to say “delicious” and “I’m hungry”; I taught them how to say “What I mean is…” and “Internet cable.” Their English names are Pony, Johnson, and Joy; their English names are French—Portia and Yvonne. They ask if Beijing is like New York City. They’d like to study in America, but fear the GMAT, the cost, and U.S. Customs. They hang charms from their cell phones; they eat black eggs and processed chicken meat in stick form for breakfast. They have surprise in their eyes when I insist that I am able to walk to the subway alone—they didn’t believe I knew where I was going, seven weeks later.

They made my experience. They gave me gifts of chopsticks, bookmarks, and silk bags. They opened up to me over time, admitting that the volunteer experience wasn’t all they were promised it would be during their year of training. In doing so, they quietly spoke out against the rules. They trusted me enough to do this. They surprise me with their depth, even seven weeks later. I’d been in their ranks and changed their lines a little, and they changed me as well.

They cried when I left them on the last day of competition.

I cried too.